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Taste Test: Doria’s

22 Merchants Row, Middlebury, 388-3624

Amigo’s Cantina in Middlebury was a Tex-Mex standard for 20 years, so when the taco joint closed this spring and the building re-emerged as an Italian restaurant with a striking red and black façade, people took notice. The new eatery, Doria’s, opened on May 1 and threw its grand opening celebration earlier this month.... Read more

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Taste Test: Nothing But Noodles

150 Dorset Street, South Burlington, 318-4855

Not long ago, a trio of mega-chain franchises said sayonara to downtown Burlington. The Dunkin' Donuts on Main Street, once a late-night hangout for those seeking coffee and a sugar rush, has been replaced by locally owned Junior's Downtown. The McDonald's on Bank Street is McGone. And Quiznos' toasted sandwiches have disappeared from Church Street, soon to be replaced by burritos from a much smaller, New England-based chain called Boloco, which boasts tofu, brown rice and humanely raised meats among its offerings.... Read more

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Taste Test: Sweetwaters

120 Church Street, Burlington, 864-9800

It's got a massive mural featuring rollicking nude figures straight out of an ancient bacchanal, and tons of al fresco seating on a busy corner of Church Street. But for years, there was one thing Sweetwaters lacked: food worth a trip.... Read more

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Taste Test: Pho Hong

325 North Winooski Avenue, Burlington, 865-8031

Opening a restaurant in a former bus terminal can present some design challenges — think super-high ceiling, harsh lighting and an industrial ambiance. But Pho Hong, which took over the convenient North Winooski spot previously occupied by Global Markets, has adapted to its unusual surroundings with grace. Exposed brick is painted a delicate salmon, and the walls — which hold a collection of paintings and Asian scrolls — are spring green.... Read more

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Taste Test: Tip Top Café

85 N. Main Street, White River Jct.

If you think of White River Junction as a place to hop off the highway for a bathroom break and a fast-food burger, you may want to give it another look.

The tiny village, located within the town of Hartford in Vermont's Upper Valley, declined after the interstate system replaced the trains that used to bring passengers, and bucks, to area businesses. But over the past decade the locale — which lies at the intersection of I-89 and I-91 — has been experiencing a creative-economy renaissance.... Read more

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Taste Test: Sadie Katz Delicatessen

189 Bank Street, Burlington, 864-5308

When I was a little girl living in Brooklyn, my parents used to take me to Brighton Beach on the weekends. Aside from riding on the overheated subway, I don't remember much about those trips — except my lust for potato knishes, that is. Vendors walked up and down the beach hawking the golden dumplings that were filled with a rich mixture of mashed potatoes and onions. I couldn't get my toddler tongue around the word "knish," so I begged for "potato conditioners."... Read more

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Taste Test: Big Chile Republic

70 Roosevelt Highway, Colchester, 655-2520

For two and a half years, Chef Chris Hechanova ran a successful take-out and delivery business from his apartment kitchen. Though Big Chile Republic's advertising was limited to guerrilla tactics such as flyering car windshields, and its menu and hours could be erratic, it was a hit.... Read more

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Taste Test: Kismet

207 Barre Street, Montpelier, 223-8646. 8 a.m. – 3 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday

Everybody has their own version of restaurant love at first sight. Some people swoon over a joint with 25 beers on tap and a selection of crisp, golden-brown fare from the fryer. Others go for minimalist décor, tiny plates of architecturally arranged food and a cadre of model-thin trendy folks. For me, it's about a cozy environment, thoughtful staffers and a menu that appears to take both food ethics and taste into account. Of course, for the place to keep my affection, the offerings have to tantalize my tongue, too.... Read more

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Taste Test: The Skinny Pancake

60 Lake Street, Suite 1A, Burlington, 540-0188

A few months ago, I had a lumberjack for the first time. Too much information? Well, consider that the lumberjack in question was a crêpe the size of a vinyl record folded over slices of Vermont ham and cheddar, with the optional smattering of tart apple slices. Sitting on a lower Church Street bench beside the cart where the salty-sweet concoction was made, I devoured it and licked the last bits of cheese from my fingertips. Then I went back for dessert.... Read more

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Taste Test: The Scuffer Steak & Ale House

148 Church Street, Burlington, 864-9451

I'm not much of a sports fan, so I rarely eat dinner in a room suffused with the green-blue glow from multiple TVs. Those who relish an athletic ambiance will feel right at home at the Scuffer Steak & Ale House on Church Street, formerly The Rusty Scuffer.

For me, though, it was a novelty. While I tried to ignore flashes of really big guys tackling other really big guys, my husband, though not really into sports, either, couldn't look away. "I'm a Cowboys fan from way back," he enthused.... Read more

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